SECRETS OF LOCK PICKING

At any point in your life you will need to break a lock!!!

you might lose a key, or lock with key inside, or what ever else, you need to tackle that situation. so it's good to know art of lock picking.

Contents

WARNING !!

( USING THIS CONTENT WITH THE NEXT HOUSE LEADS TO JAIL )

                Introduction

                Tools 

                Lock Identification

                Pin Tumbler Locks

                Wafer Tumbler Locks

                Double Wafer Locks

                Pin and Wafer Tumbler Padlocks

                Tubular Cylinder Locks 

                Mushroom and Spool Pin Tumbler Locks

                Magnetic Locks

                Disk Tumbler Locks

                Tips for Success

INTRODUCTION                                                             

The ancient Egyptians were the first to come up with

a complicated security device. This was the pin tumbler

lock. We use the same security principle today on millions

of applications.

The most commonly used lock today is the pin tumbler

lock. A series of pins that are divided at certain points

must be raised to these dividing points in relationship to

the separation between the cylinder wall and the shell of

the lock by a key cut for that particular series of pin divi-

sions. Thus the cylinder can be turned, and the mechanism

or lock is unlocked.

Lock picking means to open a lock by use of a flat piece

of steel called a pick. Actually, the process requires two

pieces of flat steel to open cylinder locks. It amuses me

to watch spies and thieves on TV picking locks using only

one tool. But it is for the better in a sense. If everyone

learned how to pick locks by watching TV, we would all

be at the mercy of anyone who wanted to steal from us,

and the cylinder lock for the most part would be outdated.

The actual definition of lock picking should be: "The

manipulation and opening of any restrictive mechanical

or electronic device by usage of tools other than the

implied instrument (key or code) used solely for that

device." A little lengthy, but more accurate description.

With cylinder locks, it requires a pick and a tension

wrench.

By picking the lock, you simply replace the function

of a key with a pick that raises the pins to their "break-

ing point," and using a tension wrench one rotates the

cylinder to operate the cam at the rear of the lock's cylinder

to unlock the mechanism.

                   (See Fig-01.GIF)

The tension wrench is used to apply tension to the

cylinder of the lock to cause a slight binding action on

the pins as well as to turn the cylinder after the pins have

been aligned by the pick; this opens the lock. The slight

binding action on the pins caused by the tension wrench

allows one to hear and feel each pin as it "breaks" or

reaches alignment with the separation of cylinder and

shell. The vibration is felt in the knuckles and joints of

the fingers, and the sound is similar to that of a cricket

in an arm wrestling match-a subtle yet distinct click.

Usually you need very little tension with the wrench

while picking the lock. In fact, it takes somewhat of a

delicate, yet firm touch. This is the secret to picking locks

successfully-a firm and yet gentle touch on the tension

wrench. You should be able to feel the pins click into place

with the right amount of tension; experience will be your

true guide.

Half of your success will be based on your ability to

use or improvise various objects to use as tools for your

purpose. The other half will depend on practice. I once

picked a pin tumbler lock using a borrowed roach clip

and a hairpin. A dangerous fire was prevented and prob-

ably several lives were saved. The world is full of useful

objects for the purpose, so never hesitate to experiment.

TOOLS

I started picking locks using a small screwdriver and

a safety pin. The screwdriver can be used as a tension

wrench, and the safety pin is used like a "hook" pick.

The last half inch of the screwdriver's tip was bent at a

45 degree angle so as to allow easy entry for the pick (bent

safety pin). Do not heat the screwdriver tip to bend it,

as this will destroy its temper. Use a vise and hammer to

do the job. Bend slowly by using firm and short taps of

the hammer, otherwise you may break and weaken the

shaft. The safety pin should be about one and a half inches

long and bent in the same way.

With the small screwdriver as a tension wrench, you can

use more of a turning or twisting movement than with

a regular tension wrench so you will generally need less

direct force when using it. As I mentioned earlier, with

practice you will develop the feeling for the right amount

of tension on a cylinder. If the safety pin bends after a

short time, use the keyway of the lock you are picking

to bend it back into shape. Even after several times of

bending, it should still be useful. Keep a few spares handy,

though. File the tip of the safety pin flat in relationship

to the bottom of the pins in the lock. Smooth any sharp

edges so that you won't impale yourself. Also, if the tip

is smooth, the pick will not get hung up on the pins while

picking the lock.

Granted these are not the best tools for the job, but

they do work. If you learn to use your junk box as a rich

source of equipment, then with your experience real lock

picks will give you magic fingers. Also, you'll have the

advantage of being able to improvise should you be

without the real things (which are illegal to carry on your

person in most parts of the country).

Lock picks are difficult to get. I received my first set

when I became a locksmith apprentice. All of my subse-

quent sets I made from stainless steel steak knives with

a grinder and cut-off wheel. They are much more durable

than the commercial picks. If you do make your own,

make certain that the steel is quenched after every 3

seconds of grinding-do not allow the pick to get hot to

the point of blue discoloration.

A diamond pick is the standard pick I use on most all

pin and wafer locks. A small diamond pick is used for

small pin tumbler locks such as small Master padlocks,

cabinet file locks, etc. The tubular cylinder lock pick, we

will discuss later. The double-ended, single-pronged ten-

sion wrench is used with the diamond pick. It features

double usage; a small end for small cylinders and a large

end for the larger cylinders. A special tension wrench is

used for double-wafer cylinder locks with an end with two

prongs on one end and tubular cylinder locks with the

single prong on the other end. We will discuss tubular

cylinder and double-wafer locks later as well. The steel

should be .030 inches to .035 inches thick for the picks

and .045 inches to .050 inches thick for the first tension

wrench mentioned above. The second tension wrench

should be .062 inches square (.062 inches x .062 inches)

on the tubular cylinder side (one pronged end), and .045

inches thick on the double-wafer end (two-pronged end).

You can accomplish this by starting out with .045 inches

in thickness.  The two-pronged end should be bent carefully

in a vise at a 30 degree angle. This allows easy entry for

the pick on double-wafer locks.

                      (See fig-02.GIF)

Among the more common tools used by professionals

around the world is the rake pick. The rake pick is used

to "rake" the tumblers into place by sliding it in and out

across the tumblers. I seldom use the rake pick because

it is not highly effective and I consider it a sloppy excuse

for a lock pick. I've seen the rake pick work on some dif-

ficult locks, but you can rake with a diamond pick and

get the same results. I prefer the diamond pick for most

tumbler locks simply because it is easier to get in and out

of locks-it slides across the tumblers with little or no

trouble.

A ball pick is used for picking double-wafer cylinder

locks, though I never carry one; I use a large diamond

pick and reverse it when picking these locks. This means

I have one less pick to carry and lose.

                       (See fig-03.GIF)

A double-ball pick is used like a rake on double-wafer

locks in conjunction with a tension wrench (two-pronged

end).

A hook pick is used to open lever tumbler locks, though

again, I use a diamond pick with a hooking action when

possible. There are various sizes of hooks but they all have

the same basic job-to catch the movable levers that

unlock lever locks.

There are also various sizes of tension wrenches. They

are usually made from spring steel. The standard tension

wrench is used for pin and wafer locks. A special tension

wrench is called a Feather Touch, and it is used for high-

security mushroom and spool pin tumbler locks. Its

delicate spring-loaded action allows the pick to bypass the

tendencies of these pins to stick. A homemade version of

the Feather Touch can be made from a medium-light duty

steel spring.

As to getting lock picks for your own use, you cannot

go down to your local hardware store and buy them. I

could supply you with some sources or wholesalers, but

I do believe it is illegal for them to sell to individuals. Your

best bet would be to find a machine shop that will

fabricate them for you. It would be less expensive and

arouse less suspicion if you purchase a small grinder with

a cut-off wheel and make your own. With a little prac-

tice, you can make a whole set in an afternoon. Use a copy

of the illustrations in this book as templates and carefully

cut them out with an X-ACTO knife. Cut down the middle

of the lines. Acquire some stainless steel (many steak

knives approach proper thickness).

With a glue stick, lightly coat one side of the paper

template and apply it to the cleaned stainless surface, and

allow it to dry. You'll need a can of black wrinkle finish

spray paint. This kind of paint has a high carbon con-

tent and can stand high temperature of grinding. Spray

the stainless (or knives) with the patterns glued on and

dry in a warm oven or direct sunlight for one hour. Set

aside for twenty-four more hours. Peel off the paper

template and you are ready to cut and grind. Please use

caution when cutting and grinding. The piece should be

quenched every three seconds in cold water. Smooth up

sharp edges with a small file or burnishing wheel.

Tools made from stainless steel will outlast the pur-

chased ones. The tools purchased from most suppliers are

made from spring steel and wear out after about 100 uses.

The stainless steel ones, if properly made, should last over

2,000 uses.

LOCK IDENTIFICATION

There are many types of locks, the most common being:

1. The pin tumbler lock. Used for house and garage doors,

padlocks, mail boxes, and Ford automobiles.

2. The wafer tumbler lock. Used for garage and trailer

doors, desks, padlocks, cabinets, most autos, window

locks, and older vending machines.

3. The double-wafer lock. Used for higher security wafer

tumbler applications.

4. The warded locks. Used for light security padlocks and

old-fashioned door locks.

5. Lever locks Used for light security and older padlocks,

sophisticated safe-deposit boxes, some desks, jewelry

boxes, and small cash boxes.

6. Tubular cylinder locks. Used for alarm control systems,

newer vending machines, car-wash control boxes and

wherever higher security problems might exist.

These locks are the more common locks used yet there

are variations and combinations of these principal types

that usually pick open in the manner that will be discussed.

Some of them just require practice of the basic types,

others luck, and most of the rest of them knowledge of

how that particular lock works and is keyed. This comes

from experience.

                       (See fig-04.GIF)

PIN TUMBLER LOCKS

Pin tumbler locks offer the most security for their price.

They have close machine tolerances and approximately

1,000,000 different key combinations for a five-pin lock.

Considering the thousands of different companies mak-

ing pin tumblers (different shaped keyways for each com-

pany or design line), the chances of someone having a key

that will work in your front door lock are one in many

billions.

Pin tumbler locks can easily be identified by peering

down the keyway and locating the first round pin.

Sometimes you can see the pin's dividing point, where it

breaks with the cylinder wall (shear point).

To successfully pick a pin tumbler lock, your sense of

touch sould be honed so that both hands feel the tools.

Once the hand holding the pick has located a slight relief

in tension while picking a particular tumbler, the other

hand holding the tension wrench will feel a relief or break-

ing point. Both hands should be involved with the sense

of touch, the sensing of the inner workings of the lock.

We are now ready to begin the first lesson. First open

your front door and check for a pin tumbler lock on it.

It should have one on it. If there is one, leave the door

open to decrease suspicion. Do not lock yourself out of

your apartment or house by being overconfident; not only

will you raise suspicion, but window glass is not cheap.

HOW TO PICK A TUMBLER LOCK

STEP ONE

Without using the tension wrench, slip the pick into

the lock. The "hook" of the pick should be toward the

tumblers (up in most cases, depending on whether or not

the lock was mounted upside down-you can tell by look-

ing down the keyway and locating the first pin with your

pick). Try to feel the last tumbler of the lock. It should

be 7/8 inches into the lock for a five-pin tumbler lock

(most common pin tumbler lock used).

Make certain that you have no tension on the wrench

when inserting the pick as this will encumber the frontal

tumblers. When you feel the back tumbler, slowly raise

it with a slight prying motion of the pick. Release it, but

keep the pick in the lock on the rear tumbler.

Now insert the tension wrench, allowing room for the

pick to manipulate all of the pins. It should be placed at

the bottom of the cylinder if the lock was mounted

upright, tumblers toward the top of the cylinder. Apply

firm and yet gentle clockwise pressure to the tension

wrench.

Slowly raise the back tumbler with a slight prying mo-

tion of the pick. A minute click will be felt and heard when

it breaks. It will lose its springiness when this occurs, so

do not go any further with it. Any further movement with

the pick will cause binding by going past the pins' shear

line. Continue an even pressure with the tension wrench.

Keeping an even tension pressure, proceed to Step Two.

STEP TWO

The fourth tumbler should be easily felt since it is the

next one in line. Raise it until it breaks, keeping the ten-

sion wrench steady. It too will give a sound and sensa-

tion when it breaks or aligns.

STEP THREE

The third or middle tumbler is next. Again, it too will

click. Maintain a constant, even pressure on the wrench-

about the same pressure that you would use to replace

a cap on a catsup bottle. You may feel the "clicks" in your

tension wrench as well as hear them.

                       (See fig-05.GIF)

STEPS FOUR AND FIVE

Continue on to the next tumbler out, working toward

you. When it breaks, raise the last (front) tumbler to its

braking point and the cylinder should be free to rotate

and unlock the door. Sometimes you may have to play

with the wrench to open the lock because you may have

raised a tumbler too high, past its breaking point. If this

is the case, very slowly and gradually release the tension

wrench pressure and the overly extended tumbler will drop

into its breaking point before the other tumblers have a

chance to fall. The cylinder should pop open at that point.

I have found that this technique is responsible for over

30 percent of my successes in opening all tumbler locks.

If the lock still refuses to open after all that treatment,

release the tension wrench pressure, allowing all of the

tumblers to drop and start over. You may have more than

one tumbler too high and would be better off to repeat

the picking process.

WAFER TUMBLER LOCKS

Wafer tumbler locks make up over one-fourth of the

locks in use in the world. Since they are generally easier

to pick than most pin tumbler locks, you will be 75 per-

cent master after fooling around with these mechanisms.

That is why I wrote about pin tumbler locks first-they

are more difficult and make up over one-half of the locks

used today.

                       (See fig-06.GIF)

The term wafer refers to the general shape of the

tumblers. The wafers are flat, spring-loaded tumblers that

are much thinner than pins and the distance between them

is less. Wafer locks are picked in the same way as pin

tumbler locks, but you must compensate for the smaller

dimensions. You can identify wafer locks simply by look-

ing down the keyway and locating the first flat tumbler.

The last tumbler on most wafer locks is located about one-

half inch into the lock.

Wafer locks are used on filing cabinets, lockers, most

cars, garage doors, desks, and wherever medium security

is required. The only wafer tumbler lock in common use

that is difficult to pick is the side-bar wafer lock. It is the

most popular type of auto lock. This lock is of different

design than most other locks and offers much more secur-

ity than a regular wafer tumbler lock, or even a pin

tumbler lock.

The side bar lock is used mostly on General Motors

cars and trucks since 1935. It is used on ignitions, door,

and trunk locks. Side bar locks are hard to pick because

you cannot feel or hear the tumblers align with the

cylinders breaking point. A spring-loaded bar falls into

place to allow the cylinder to turn when all of the tumblers

are aligned. There is no way to tell when that happens.

One learns to sense the bar while picking so that it seems

to fall into place by itself. But for beginners, I recommend

this technique for emergency openings: Peer down the

keyway and locate the side groove of any of the tumblers

using a pick as a searching tool. Drill a small hole in the

shell of the lock above the bar which is above the grooves

on the tumblers. Since side bar locks have off-centered

keyways, the usual place to drill is opposite of the keyway.

Using an L-shaped steel wire, put pressure on the sidebar

and rake the tumblers using a tension wrench for cylinder

rotation and the lock will open.

Fortunately, most GMC autos have inferior window

seals; with a coat hanger, one can lasso the locking door

knob to open the door. If you are going to be successful

at opening side bars, you will do it within two minutes;

otherwise, you are causing unnecessary wear on your picks

not to mention wasting your time.

Ford auto locks are relatively simple to pick. They have

pin tumblers and you have to remember that the door

locks turn counterclockwise. Most other auto locks turn

clockwise. If you are not sure, remember this: If the

tumblers will not catch at their breaking points, you are

going in the wrong direction with the tension wrench.

Wafer locks are a cinch to pick if you have learned how

to pick pin tumblers. Just remember that wafers are thin-

ner than pins and there is less distance between them.

Generally you need less tension-wrench pressure with these

locks, yet car locks can be quite stubborn and require a

great deal of tension. Any heavily spring-loaded cylinder

needs a substantial amount of tension.

As a rule, though, wafer locks need less play with the

tension wrench than with pin tumbler locks. But if you

find yourself having difficulty in opening these, you may

try a little tension-wrench play. Usually they won't pop

open like pin tumbler locks, they just slide open; you don't

get the warning that a pin tumbler gives before it opens

because there is less contact area on the wafer's edge than

on a pin, so the sense of climax is reduced with these types

of locks. Still, they open quite easily.

DOUBLE WAFER LOCKS

Double-wafer locks are picked in the same way as single-

wafer locks, but there are two sides to the story. Not only

do you have to align the top wafers, but you have ones

in the bottom of the cylinder to align as well.

The Chicago Lock Company was the first to come up

with this type of lock. It is a classic example of the race

toward better security. Certain tension wrenches allow

uninterrupted picking using ball picks. You can also use

a standard tension wrench or small screwdriver and place

it at the center of the keyway. To eliminate unnecessary

baggage, use a diamond pick, reversing it to encounter

both top and bottom wafers.

                       (See Fig-07.GIF)

The last tumbler in this type of lock is located less than

one-half of an inch in. The picking procedure may have

to be repeated more than one time-top wafers, then bot-

tom wafers, top, bottom-back and forth. Yet these locks

are easier to pick than most pin tumblers.

Locate the last wafer on the top side and move it to

its breaking point. Do the same with the other top wafers.

Keep the tension wrench firm, remove the pick, turn it

upside down (if you are using a diamond or homemade

pick), and reinsert it to work the bottom wafers. You may

have to repeat this process a few times, but double-wafer

locks can and will open with such treatment. Schlage has

a doorknob lock that opens this way, but the last tumbler

is about one and one-half inches in.

Double-wafer locks are easy to master if you have

learned to pick pin and wafer tumbler locks. Since double-

wafer locks are more compact, you have to compensate

for the fact-slightly closer tolerances. These type of locks

are used on old pop and candy machines, gas caps,

cabinets, etc.

PIN AND WAFER TUMBLER PADLOCKS

Cylinder padlocks require a technique of holding them

with the same hand with which you are using the tension

wrench. This technique allows one to pick the padlock

without going into contortions over a dangling padlock.

Assuming that you are right-handed, hold the padlock

in your left hand by gripping the body of the padlock with

your thumb and forefinger. Insert the tension wrench at

the bottom of the keyway and hold it in a clockwise turn

with your ring and little finger, causing a slight binding

pressure on the cylinder. Now your right hand is free to

pick, and your left hand does the job of holding both the

lock and tension wrench. The overhand method works

well, too, but the thumb controls the tension wrench

instead. Switch around to find which is most comfortable

for you.

When tumbler padlocks pop open, it is quite a sensa-

tion because the shackle is spring-loaded and gives one

quite a jolt. It's a feeling of accomplishment. You may

need a little more tension on padlocks than on door locks

because the cylinder cam has to operate a spring-loaded

bolt. Overall, padlocks are the most fun to open. Prac-

tice using old or discarded padlocks that you have found.

I've worn out hundreds of them.

TUBULAR CYLINDER LOCKS

(Note: Diagrams of tubular lock were omitted due to the fact that picking

them with conventional methods is a complete waste of time.  There are picks

available that are specifically designed to pick this kind of lock in a

matter of seconds)

We will gradually proceed to more sophisticated locks

from here. I would like to remind you that success is not

based on personality. If one is arrogant about one's lock-

picking skills, one could easily be made a fool of by a

lock. And no matter how many times you bash a cylinder,

you will still be locked out. The only thing you accomplish

is attracting an audience-so be cool.

If at this point you have had much difficulty under-

standing the principles of pin and wafer locks, please

restudy this book from the beginning. Read it several times

so as to absorb it. The information that you now have

has taken me almost two decades to gather, so please be

mindful of that.

Now you are about to learn how to open the more dif-

ficult locking mechanisms-some of the other 25 percent

of the locks used today. You should feel confident with

pin, wafer and double-wafer tumbler locks before you

attempt rim cylinder locks.

Tubular cylinder locks stand out as the most generally

accepted lock in all important industries using high-quality

locks for protection of property, merchandise, and cash.

They are recognized as giving the maximum amount of

security for their price range.

Tubular cylinder locks are pin tumbler locks arranged

on a circular plane. Unlike conventional pin tumbler locks,

all of the pins are exposed to the eye. The central section

of the lock rotates to operate the cam when all of the seven

pins have reached their breaking points. When the pro-

per key is entered into the lock, the tumblers are pressed

into position so that the central section (plug) can be

turned. This manual operation of inserting the key places

the tumblers in position so that the lock can be operated

and ensures that frost, dust, salt, or unfavorable climatic

conditions will not affect the smooth operation of the

lock.

The Chicago Ace lock is a product of the Chicago Lock

Company of Chicago, Illinois. It is an effective security

device and is used on vending machines, coin boxes, and

burglar alarms. A larger, more complex version of it is

used on bank doors and electronic teller machines. The

key is of tubular shape with the cuts arranged in a circle

around the key.

The pick used for this lock is the tubular cylinder pick,

or you may use a straight pin or your homemade safety

pin pick. The one-pronged end of the tension wrench is

a little more specialized and is used for rim cylinder locks.

It must be .062 inches square for best results. Any square

steel stock is acceptable, as long as it fits snugly into the

groove of the tubular cylinder plug.

This type of lock is a burglar's nightmare because it

takes so long to pick. You have to pick it three or four

times to accomplish the unlocking radius of 120 to 180

degrees. And the cylinder locks after each time you pick

it-every one-seventh of a turn.

If you leave the lock only partly picked, the key will

not be able to open it, so you must pick it back into the

locked position after opening it-another three or four

picking sessions. In all, to unlock and lock the cylinder,

you have to pick it up to eight times-quite a chore if you

don't have the right tools or time.

These locks almost always pick in the clockwise direc-

tion. Make certain that the tension wrench fits snugly into

the groove on the cylinder. Very slowly push the first pin

down until it clicks, maintaining a definite clockwise

pressure on the tension wrench. Once the tumbler has

broken, do not push any further and proceed to the next

one, and so on. As you reach the last tumbler, the ten-

sion wrench will feel more slack and give way if the lock

were properly picked.

There are special keyhole saws for these locks in which

you drill out the tumblers and turn the cylinder. Also there

is a special tool used by locksmiths to open rim cylinder

locks.

MUSHROOM AND SPOOL PIN TUMBLER LOCKS

High-security pin tumbler locks may contain specially

made pins to make picking them more challenging. The

pins are machined so as to make picking them quite dif-

ficult. When picking these locks, the pins give the impres-

sion that they have broken, when in fact they could be

a long way from breaking. You can tell whether or not

you are picking a pin tumbler lock that has these pins by

the fact that the pins seem to align so easily with a louder

than normal click. The cylinder seems eager to open but

to no avail.

The picking procedure relies on a well-yielding tension

wrench. The tension wrench has to be lightly spring-loaded

so that the pins can bypass their false breaking points.

You also have to "rake" (seesaw in and out) the pins with

your pick. The feather-touch tension wrench is ideal for

the job. Use light pressure with it, and it will let you in.

(Note: A feather-touch tension wrench is not necessarily required.  A normal

tension wrench will work fine with an extremely light tension on it.  The 

weight of just your index finger alone should be enough in most cases.)

The mushroom and spool pins are used in locks for

high-security purposes such as bank doors. The American

Lock Company uses them in some of their padlocks.

MAGNETIC LOCKS

Magnetic locks are fascinating. I almost hate to open

them because I feel that I have breached their uniqueness.

In reality, you do not pick them, but "confuse" them. They

generally work on the principle that like magnetic

polarities repel each other. The key is a set of small

magnets arranged in a certain order to repel other magnets

in the lock, thereby allowing the spring-loaded bolt or cam

to open the lock.

By using a pulsating electromagnetic field, you can

cause the magnets in the lock to vibrate violently at thirty

vibrations per second, thereby allowing it to be opened

by intermittent tugging of the bolt or turning of the door

knob.

This method may also ruin the small magnets in the

lock by changing their magnetic status or properties. So,

if you have to perform an emergency break-in with these

locks, do not relock the door. The card or key will not

operate the lock.

The magnetic pick can be used on padlocks by strok-

ing it across the place where the key is placed. It is also

designed to fit into the doorknob and is used by stroking

one pole in and out or by using the other pole the same

way.

If you have had little or no training and experience

building something like this, please have a friend who is

familiar with basic electronics do it for you. Do not take

the chance of electrocuting yourself. Make sure that the

coil is also completely covered with electrician's tape after

you have wound the 34 gauge wire. Also make sure that

the steel core has at least three layers of tape over it. Do

not leave the unit plugged in for more than two to three

minutes at any one time as this may cause overheating

which could cause it to burn out or start a fire. It is safe

to use if constructed properly and not left plugged in

unattended. Opening magnetic locks requires only 30 to

60 seconds anyway, so don't leave the unit plugged in for

longer.

For magnetic padlocks, use a back-and-forth stroking

action along the length of the keyway. For magnetic door

locks, use a stroking in-and-out action in the slot of the

knob alternating from one side (pole) of the pick to the

other.

The "key" for a magnetic door lock is a metal or plastic

card containing an array of magnetic domains or regions

coded in a specific order to allow entry. The magnetic pick

bypasses that.

                       (See fig-08.GIF)

DISK TUMBLER LOCKS

Combination or "puzzle" locks were invented to fur-

ther improve security and the protection of valuables. The

older safes and lockboxes were good security devices when

they came into the market, but some people became

curious and realized that these safe locks had inherent

weaknesses. One of the main problems was that the disk

tumblers were not mechanically isolated from the bolt that

unlocks the safe door. In other words, you could feel and

hear the tumblers while turning the dial by applying

pressure on the handle of the bolt.

When that problem was recognized and solved, thieves

started drilling through strategic places in the lock itself

to open it. Knocking off hinges was an all-time favorite

tactic as well. Then came punching out the dial shaft,

blowtorching, and just plain blowing the door with ex-

plosives. Greed can breed great creativity.

The first problem, that of manipulating the tumblers

open, was rectified by making use of the dial to operate

the bolt upon completion of the dialing of the correct com-

bination. This made it nearly impossible to feel or hear

the tumblers. Drilling was deterred by laminating the safe

door with hard steel and beryllium-copper plates. The

beryllium-copper plates pull heat away from the drill tip

quickly, and the bit just spins without effect; drilling can-

not take place without the generation of heat at the bit's

cutting edges. Knocking off hinges was discouraged by

using three or more bolts operated by a main linkage net-

work. Punching out the dial shaft to let the tumblers fall

out of the way of the bolt was corrected by beveling the

shaft into the wall of the safe door.

Presently, safe locks are quite sophisticated. Picking

them would require supernatural power. The older safes,

however, are much easier and even fun to pick. Picking

combination padlocks is a good way to start learning how

to open safes, and we will get to them shortly. But first,

let us discuss some basic prmciples of disk tumbler locks.

Disk tumbler locks work by the use of flat, round disks

of metal or plastic with a notch and a peg on each disk.

The notch is called the tumbler gate. The gate of each

tumbler has to be lined up with the pawl of the bolt

mechanism by usage of the linking capabilities of the pegs.

The first tumbler of the disk tumbler lock (also the last

combination number dialed) is mechanically connected

to the dial through the safe door. When the dial is turned,

the first tumbler picks up the middle tumbler when their

pegs connect. The middle tumbler in turn picks up the

last tumbler for one more complete turn and the tumblers

have been "cleared"-you are ready to dial the first com-

bination number by aligning the last tumbler's gate to the

pawl. After you have reached this number or position,

rotate the dial in the opposite direction one complete turn

(for three tumbler locks; two turns for four tumbler locks)

to engage the middle tumbler and drive it to the second

combination mlmber. By rotating the dial back into the

opposite direction to the last combination number, the

bolt can be operated to open the lock, or as in the case

of newer safes, the dial will operate the bolt by turning

it once again in the opposite direction.

One of the innovations that developed to deter sensual

manipulation of combination locks was the use of ser-

rated front tumblers (last combination number dialed).

These were designed to foil listening and feeling of the

tumblers' gates by burglars.

When the bolt encountered any one of these shallow

gates, the safecracker could never be sure whether or not

a tumbler was actually aligned with the pawl-bolt

mechanism. Some burglars solved this problem by attach-

ing high-speed drills to the dial knob to rotate and wear

down the first tumbler's shallow false gates against the

bolt, thereby eliminating them altogether, or at least

minimizing their effects. Still, today the serrated tumbler

is used as an effective deterrent to manipulation in com-

bination padlocks where space is a factor.

Let us move on to combination padlocks. The most

common and difficult to open of these small disk tumbler

locks are the Master combination padlocks, and they are

quite popular. I have had good luck in opening these locks

with a wooden mallet or soft-faced hammer. The manip-

ulation of Master combination padlocks is quite easy-I

have done it thousands of times, and you can learn it, too.

The newer the lock is, though, the more difficult it will

be to open at first. If the lock has had a lot of use, such

as that on a locker-room door where the shackle gets

pulled down and encounters the tumblers while the com-

bination is being dialed, the serrated front tumblers will

become smoothed down, allowing easier sensing of the

tumblers. So, until you have become good at opening these

locks, practice extensively on an old one. Let's try to open

one:

OPENING A COMBINATION PADLOCK

STEP ONE

First, clear the tumblers by engaging all of them. This

is done by turning the dial clockwise (sometimes these

locks open more easily starting in the opposite direction)

three to four times. Now bring your ear close to the lock

and gently press the bottom back edge to the bony area

just forward of your ear canal opening so that vibrations

can be heard and felt. Slowly turn the dial in the opposite

direction. As you turn, you will hear a very light click as

each tumbler is picked up by the previous tumbler. This

is the sound of the pickup pegs on each disk as they engage

each other. Clear the tumblers again in a clockwise man-

ner and proceed to step two.

STEP TWO

After you have cleared the tumblers, apply an upward

pressure on the shackle of the padlock. Keeping your ear

on the lock, try to hear the tumblers as they rub across

the pawl; keep the dial rotating in a clockwise direction.

You will hear two types of clicks, each with a subtle

difference in pitch. The shallow, higher pitched clicks are

the sound of the false gates on the first disk tumbler. Do

not let them fool you-the real gates sound hollow and

empty, almost nonexistent.

When you feel a greater than normal relief in the shackle

once every full turn, this is the gate of the first tumbler

(last number dialed). This tumbler is connected directly

to the dial as mentioned earlier. Ignore that sound for now.

When you have aligned the other two tumblers, the last

tumbler's sound will be drowned out by the sound of the

shackle popping open.

STEP THREE

While continuing in a clockwise direction with the dial,

listen carefully for the slight hollow sound of either one

of the first two tumblers. Note on the dial face where these

sounds are by either memorizing them or writing them

down. Make certain that you do not take note of the driv-

ing tumbler (last number dialed). If you hear and feel only

one hollow click (sounds like "dumpf"), chances are that

the first number could be the same as the last one.

You should have two numbers now. Let us say one of

them is 12 and the other is 26. Clear the tumblers again

just to be safe and stop at the number 12. Go

counterclockwise one complete turn from 12. Continue

until there is another "dumpf" sound. After the complete

turn pass 12, if you feel and hear a louder than normal

sound of a tumbler rubbing on the pawl, the first tumbler

is properly aligned and the second tumbler is taking the

brunt of the force from the shackle-you are on the right

track. When the second tumbler has aligned in this case,

you will feel a definite resistance with the last turn of the

dial going clockwise. The final turn will automatically

open the shackle of the lock. If none of these symptoms

are evident, try starting with the number of the combina-

tion, 26, in the same way.

STEP FOUR

If the lock still does not open, don't give up. Try search-

ing for a different first number. Give it a good thirty- or

forty-minute try. If you play with it long enough, it will

eventually open. The more practice you have under your

belt, the quicker you will be able to open these padlocks

in the future.

Using a stethoscope to increase audibility of the clicks

is not out of the question when working on disk tumbler

locks, though I never use them for padlocks. A miniature

wide-audio-range electronic stethoscope with a magnetic

base for coupling a piezoelectric-type microphone is ideal

for getting to know the tumblers better.

Filing your fingertips to increase sensitivity might not

be such a good idea for beginners since their fingertips

will not be accustomed to operating dials for a long period

of time. With practice, you may develop calluses and need

to file your fingertips. But I don't recommend it at first.

After some time you may find that in some cases you

can whiz right through the combination of an unknown

lock without looking at it and pop it open in seconds.

It becomes second nature. I've done this on many occa-

sions-something beyond my conscious control seems to

line up the tumblers without my thinking about it.

Another type of disk tumbler padlock is the Sesame

lock made by the Corbin Lock Co. Its unique design

makes it more difficult to open than Master padlocks, but

it can be opened. Let's take one of the three or four wheel

mechanisms, look at a cross section, and see how it works.

The wheel has numbers from zero to nine. Attached to

the wheel is a small cam. Both the wheel and cam turn

on the shaft. Each wheel in this lock operates indepen-

dently with its own cam and shaft. The locking dog is

locked to the shackle. In this position the shackle cannot

be opened. The locking dog operates with all three or four

wheels. The locking dog is riding on the round edge of

the cam. The spring is pushing up on the cam. The lock-

ing dog cannot move up because it is resting on the round

part of the cam. When the wheel is turned to the proper

combination number, the locking dog rests on the flat of

the cam. The spring can then raise the locking dog to

release the shackle, and this opens the lock.

TIPS FOR SUCCESS

You will undoubtedly encounter a pin tumbler lock in

which there will be a pin or two that is keyed too low

(the shear line of the pin is too high). In this case the lock

is difficult to open because the breaking point of a long

bottom pin doesn't allow room in the keyway for the pick

to manipulate the other pins. Your success in opening

"tight" locks will depend on the skill you have developed

with your tension wrench. Sometimes it helps to play with

the tension wrench. Try bouncing it left and right slightly

while picking, allowing some of the tumblers to drop occa-

sionally. You may also try picking the front tumblers first

or picking at random on these locks. You can tell if you

have a lock that is keyed like this because your pick may

get jammed during the picking process.

After you have opened a cylinder and unlocked a lock,

be sure to return it to the locked position. You will hear

the tumblers click into place when this happens. Other-

wise it may be difficult to unlock it with its key because

the bottom pins cannot "float" like they normally would.

To tell whether or not the cylinder should go clockwise

or counterclockwise when picking a tumbler lock, there

is an easy rule to follow. If the tumblers (pin or wafer)

will not break, or stay broken, you are going in the wrong

direction with the tension wrench. There will be little or

no progress with the cylinder, and few, if any, "clicks."

Some keyways are cut at an angle (Yale, Dexter, and

Schlage, for example) so you want to be sure that you tilt

your pick to follow that angle while picking or your pick

will get hung up. A slight twist of the wrist will compen-

sate for this problem.

Should your fingers become tired while picking a lock,

lay down your tools and shake your hands and fingers

to relieve any tension. After some time the muscles in your

hands will become accustomed to such activity. Practice

and persistence will tone your hands and senses to the

point where you will be able to pop open a cylinder in

three to five seconds (that's seconds) in total darkness. The

combination of touch and sound lets you know almost

a split second before you open the lock that you have

succeeded.

If the lock is a well-machined one, the cylinder will feel

tight and you will need a little firmer hand on the ten-

sion wrench. While picking, if any one of the pins at any

time feels firm or difficult to move, chances are it's aligned.

If it feels springy, it is not.

Use the shaft of the pick if you have to when working

the frontal pin of a pin tumbler lock. This may save you

the trouble of aligning the tip of the pick on the front

pin where there is little or no support for the pick. All

of the other pins allow the pick to be supported by the

inside wall of the keyway.

Master keyed pin tumbler locks are generally easier to

pick open because they have more than one shear line or

breaking point in the pins. Master keying allows a group

of locks to be controlled by a master key holder while the

individual locks in that group are controlled by individual

keys. Hotels and apartment complexes are usually master

keyed.

There is a simple technique to open pin and wafer

tumbler locks. Simply drill through the shear lines of the

tumblers. This point is located just above the center of

the keyway on the face of the cylinder. By doing this,

though, you obviously ruin the lock and make a lot of

racket. If the lock is a Medeco or some other high-security -

lock, you risk damage of one hundred dollars or more,

so be sure you know the value of the situation before you

decide to rape the lock. Use a center punch to start a

reliable hole on the cylinder face and use a one-quarter

inch drill bit with a variable speed drill. With a large

screwdriver, turn it to unlock. The cylinder will be dif-

ficult to turn because you may be shearing the tumbler

springs that have fallen down past the cylinder's shear line.

Dead bolt locks are those mounted on a door above

the knob. All dead bolt locks unlock counterclockwise

with left-hand doors and clockwise with righthand doors.

If you have trouble remembering this, just remember that

the bolt of the lock has to go in the opposite direction

of the doorjam.

Dead bolt locks are just as easy to pick open as knob

locks are. They both have cylinders that can be picked

open. The main difference is that dead bolts cannot be

opened by sliding a plastic or metal card through to the

bolt so as to work it back. In other words, they are not

spring loaded. That's why they are called dead bolts. Most

knob locks now have guards in front of the bolts to deter

opening with cards.

Kwik-sets, Weisers, and some of the less-expensive knob

locks may open in either direction. Schlage and Corbin,

along with more sophisticated locks, can open only in one

direction. Auto locks will open either way. Another

method of picking pin tumbler locks is with a pick gun.

As the pick snaps up, it hits the bottom pin. This bounces

the top pin out of the cylinder and into the shell. As you

apply light turning pressure with the tension wrench, the

top pins are caught in the shell, the cylinder will turn. I've

never used a pick gun, but they do work well for lock-

smiths who use them. They are cumbersome and expen-

sive, and show some lack of professionalism.

(Note: If you don't care about professionalism and want to open 95% of all

pin tumbler locks out there - and fast- buy this device.  It is very awesome.

I even recommend it over a Cobra Electronic lockpick.  Trust me, I have both,

and I feel the $60 Lockaid pick gun blows away the $350 Cobra)

SOME PRECAUTIONS

If you bought this book to learn how to pick locks in

order to become a more efficient burglar, then there is

not a whole lot I can say or do to stop you. But I must

say this: the locks used in prisons are nearly impossible

to pick even if you get or make the right tools. They are

usually electrically controlled from an external station.

Do not carry lock picks on your person. If you get

caught with them, you could get nailed for most any pro-

fessional job in town for the last seven years. If you must

carry them, as in the case of rescue workers, etc., please

consult your local authorities about details and ask about

registering with them. As a former locksmith, I do not

have that problem.

I advise that you do not teach your friends how to pick

locks. The choice is yours, of course. You paid the price

of this book and the knowledge is yours-be selfish with

it. It is for your own protection as well. The fewer people

who know you have this skill, the better. Getting blamed

for something you didn't do is unfair and a hassle.

When you become proficient at picking locks, you may

decide to get a job as a locksmith. But believe me, there

is more to being a locksmith than being able to pick locks.

You have to be a good carpenter as well as a fair mechanic.

But you may want to approach the owner of a lock shop

and ask if you could get on as an apprentice.

NOBODY'S PERFECT

There isn't a locking device on earth that cannot be

opened with means other than its key or code. It's just

that some are easier to open than others. Anything with

a keyhole, dial, or access port is subject to being opened

with alternate means, though some of the newer electronic

and computer-controlled security devices would be a

nightmare even if you had extensive knowledge of elec-

tronics and electromagnetics. Some devices also use palm

prints as a readout to allow entry.

On the mechanical side, there are locks that have nor-

mal pin tumblers, but they are situated in various places

360 degrees around the cylinder. Some locks use pin

tumblers that not only have to be aligned vertically within

the cylinder, but also have to "twist" or turn a certain

number of degrees to allow the cylinder to open. This is

because the pins' shear line is cut at an angle. These locks

are made by Medeco.

I have witnessed only one Medeco lock being picked-

by a fellow locksmith. We both spent hours trying to pick

it again, but it was futile. We estimated the chances of

opening it again to be one out of 10,000. They are excellent

security devices, but their price keeps them limited to areas

prone to security problems such as isolated vending

machines and for government use. The only one I have

been successful at opening (after an hour of picking) was

one I drilled. By the way, they are easy to drill because

the brass that's used is soft.

LEARNING TO TOUCH AND FEEL

Most of us know how to touch. We touch objects every

day, and yet we do not truly feel them. It seems so

commonplace that we forget that we are actually feeling

while we touch.

Here is an exercise that will develop a delicate touch.

Gently rub and massage your hands and fingers-

preferably with hand lotion. Do this for five minutes. Once

the lotion has evaporated, shake your hands and fingers

so that they flop loosely. Gently pull each finger to relax

each joint.

Now with a piece of fine sandpaper, gently draw the

tips of your fingers across it. Try to feel the texture of

the grains on its surface. Relax your fingers, hands, fore-

arms, shoulders, and chest. Take your time. Do this for

several minutes.

After a few weeks of practice, you will be able to feel

each individual grain of sand on the sandpaper. This

allows you to feel the slightest sensation vibrate through

your bones.

Try to remember to practice touching and feeling dur-

ing your everyday experiences. Practice feeling wood,

metal, and various other objects. Play with the feel of

mechanical vibrations, even your television set. Try to sense

the world around you as a source of information. This

could and will open a whole new horizon of experience.

After a while, you will be able to feel or sense the move-

ment of the tumblers of a Sargeant and Greenleaf safe.

My first safe opened in three minutes because of that

technique that took me years to discover.

VISUALIZATION

If you respect the security of the lock and do not

become overconfident, you will never become disappointed

if you fail to open it. You also increase your chances of

opening the lock because you personally have nothing to

gain or lose by opening it. Give up trying to be an expert

and just pick the lock.

With such an attitude, you may find the lock will usually

pop right open. I never received a trophy for being the

best lock picker in the state. My satisfaction is in know-

ing that I am never helpless in a lockout situation. The

quality of your success is almost romantic; it involves sen-

sitivity and compassion in the face of curiosity as a means

to help others.

Visualization and imagination are important to the lock

picker. I've noticed that people who have the ability to

visualize the internal parts of the lock that they are pick-

ing seldom fail to open it in moments. Anyone can learn

to do this by simply remembering to do it while picking

a lock. Since sight, sound, and touch are involved with

the process, visualization is very easy to do. Try to keep

all of your attention on the lock during the picking pro-

cess. This will help you to learn how to use heightened

sensitivity for picking locks.

So in that respect, an unopened lock is like a new and

unexplored lover. You imagine all of the qualities of an

attractive person whom you've just met and apply that

feeling to the lock that you are picking. Use visualization.

It will help immensely.

(Note: All this Zen stuff may sound like a load of shit, but it's not.  I 

myself cannot pick a lock unless I am comfortable.  If I am craving a 

cigarette or I am hungry or something else like that, I have a difficult time

opening a lock. Also, attitude is important.  Don't show off.)

Have fun